Tutorial published January 12, 2019
​Updated on April 29, 2023
​
DISCLAIMER:
  • This tutorial is meant for educational purposes only.
  • Rinazuha and any contributor of this tutorial are not liable for any mistakes, harms, injuries, or damages incurred while attempting to follow and perform the instructions in any part of this tutorial.
  • The instructions involve the use of potentially hazardous tools and materials, including but not limited to paints and glues, scissors and knives, pins and needles, heat gun, electric and/or power tools, etc.
  • This tutorial is solely for educational purposes​. By following and attempting the instructions from this tutorial, you are the sole responsible party for any consequences incurred to you or your environment. Rinazuha and any contributor of this tutorial are not involved in any way and are exempt from all possible consequences involved in any attempts using this tutorial. Please read carefully and use extreme caution and common sense while attempting to exercise or modify any part of this tutorial. 
  • If you are a MINOR: do not attempt to follow and perform any process of this tutorial without adult permission and/or supervision.
Welcome to my Dark Elementalist Lux cosplay tutorial!

This is my first time writing a tutorial. I hope that it will be helpful to you. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me on Facebook, Instagram, or by email at [email protected].

*This tutorial is best viewed on desktop 1920x1080p using Google Chrome or Mozilla Firefox*
Please use the navigation buttons below and throughout this page to move quickly through the tutorial. Click on the images to enlarge them.
Jump to:

Wig

Materials needed:
​Optional:
Tips: 
  1. If you are not comfortable with thinning a wig with scissors, you could also use thinning shears or razors to do so
  2. It is better to cut small pieces at a time as it would be easier to correct mistakes if you don't cut enough off
  3. When gradient dyeing the wig, make sure to cover your work area and wear gloves as the dye would get everywhere. Spray the dye in a WELL-VENTILATED AREA because of the alcohol fumes.​ ​
Guide:
  • Depending on your head/hair size, Arda Wig has the Jeannie in 2 sizes. You could also use other brands of ponytail wigs too, but I like Arda's the best because of the size of the wig cap and the texture of the wig fiber. The Jeannie is made of 2 parts, the base which is a short ponytail wig, and the ponytail which is a clip on extension. The wig will be styled in 4 parts: bangs, ponytail, styling, and gradient dyeing.​​​​
  • Part 1: cutting bangs
    • ​For the base wig, 4-6 toupee clips were sewn along the edges of the wig cap. Doing this will help spread out the weight and pressure evenly when worn, which will keep the wig secure and minimize pain caused by wig pulling back
    • For this part, I put wig on to style for a better fit on my head, but you could also style it on a wig head. It doesn't have to be super neat because you will be doing actual styling after dyeing.
    • Dark Lux parts her bangs on the left side; how deep you want the part depends on your preference and face shape. I used wig scissors to thing out the bangs and fringe.​
  • Part 2: cutting the ponytail
    • For the ponytail, adding extra wefts is totally optional if you want a fuller look. For my wig, instead of adding wefts, I made my own using the clip on itself. Because the length of the clip on is quite long, about halfway through the clip on, I tied it with several rubber bands (make sure this part is as tight and secured as possible because you will need stub it).
    • Once the bottom half of the ponytail is secured, cut it off, leaving about 1" from the rubber bands & hot glue (clear silicone caulk can work for this part too). Next, I clipped this section into the butterfly clip of the clip-on and thinned/layered it out.​
  • Part 3: curling
    • Once the wig is cut and thinned in the right shape, use rollers to make the ponytail more wavy. You can use either the hot water method or just wet the rolls & blow dry on high heat. The curls do not need to be perfect because Dark Lux's ponytail has more of a voluminous messy/beachy waves look to it.
    • This is an easy easy method of styling her wig, but if you want defined spikes instead, you can use glue or clear silicone to create the spikes (must be done after dyeing the wig instead).
  • Part 4: gradient dyeing
    • After all the curling is done, I used the FW ink method to add a gradient to the wig.  Dilute the ink with rubbing alcohol (either 50% or 70% alcohol is fine). I used the ratio of about 1 cup of alcohol & about 6-7 full squeezes of the dropper that comes with the ink in Process Magenta. I also added about 2 drops of the ink in Process Cyan to make the color more cool toned, which is optional.
    • Mix it up and start spraying from the bottom of the ponytail, brushing the wig as you spray to keep the wig fibers from getting crunchy. You might have to spray it 2-3 times in order for it to get to the right shade. Add some to the ends of the bangs and fringe as well. Notice, the dye will look darker when it is wet.
    • I let the ink to dry and set for 3 days before rinsing it with, but you could also rinse after 1-2 days if you're in a rush. It is very important to rinse well with COLD water until water runs clear, otherwise, the excess ink will start to bleed.
    • Air dry and tie the ponytail to fit your head and style with hairspray or glue as desired.​
CLICK HERE to go back to parts selection.

Staff

Materials needed:

  • ​Super glue or contact cement & hot glue
  • Battery-operated LED fairy lights in pink
  • Box cutter, hand saw, & scissors
  • Sandpapers (120 & 240 grits)
  • Heavy duty packaging tape
Tips:
  1. Mix containers of different shades of paints that you need ahead in order for the color/finish to stay consistent with the rest of the cosplay.​ Mix enough for the ENTIRE cosplay.
  2. If you add Angelus Leather Paint to your paint mixtures, your paints will become much more pigmented, flexible, and dry faster. Since Angelus paint is acrylic based, it is completely mixable with regular acrylics paints.
  3. If you thin down the Flexbond (I like 1:5 ratio of water to Flexbond), it'll help minimize streaks when sealing the foam.
  4. It is easier to seal & paint the wooden dowel separately from everything else. Do it while you wait for the other pieces to dry.
Guide:
  • All patterning was done on Adobe Illustrator using the 3D model as a base and printed to size.
  • Part 1: staff wings
    • The wings of the staff were made from 2 pieces of pink insulation foam (0.5" thick) which I cut with a box cutter.
    • The foam was then shaped with 120-grit sand paper and smoothed with 240-grit sand paper.
  • Part 2: the floating effect
    • For the floating effect of the wings and crystal, I used Lexan instead of acrylic sheet because it is stronger and more resistant to cracking than acrylic sheets.
    • The poly-carbonate sheet was custom laser cut by TX/RX Labs, and I wet sanded all the edges smooth.
    • The cutouts were then inserted and glued into 1.5" slits that I cut into the ends of the wooden dowel.​
  • Part 3: gluing & painting
    • All the wing pieces were glued to the Lexan with hot glue. Caulk was used to fill and smooth out all the gaps and seams.
    • The wings were sealed with diluted Flexbond. Next, everything was primed with 4-5 coats of Vallejo Acrylic Primer, and painted with the premixed acrylic paint.
  • Part 4: the crystal
    • The crystal was made from clear craft plastic (which is very flexible & does not crack or shatter easily) and painted with acrylic paint. In order to prevent streaks in the plastic, I pressed paper towels over it several times to even out the paint.
    • I made a pattern then cut the individual shapes out of the plastic using scissors after the paint dried completely.
    • Use clear heavy duty packaging tape on the shiny side of the plastic to attach the main triangular pieces of the plastic. This makes it easier to fold and attach the pieces later on. Don't use glue for this part.
    • Only glue the BOTTOM HALF of the crystal to the Lexan. The top half was left unglued in order to easily add and remove the LED fairy lights without losing structure or falling out.
  • Part 5: attaching & finishing
    • Using a hand saw, cut a 2" long slit vertically down each end of the wooden dowel (which should already be painted ahead for easy handling). Pay close attention to the direction of the cut as they should be parallel to each other in order for the wings to face in the same direction. Use a Dremel to smooth out these slits. The slits should only be thick enough to fit the Lexan extremely tight for a better hold.​​
  • ​The finished floating wings/gem pieces were then attached to these slits using super glue, and EVA foam was wrapped around the handle at the bottom of the slit for raised section of the handle.
  • Worbla's Black Art was used to make the conical shapes at the ends of the staff under the crystals (the circled part on the photo at the right).
  • The raised sections and cones were then primed and painted to finish the staff.
CLICK HERE to go back to parts selection.

Armors & Accessories

Materials needed:
  • EVA foam (2mm, 3mm, & 5mm)
  • Worbla's Black Art & Worbla's Mesh Art
  • Acrylic primer
  • Metallic acrylic paint
  • Wires (18 or 20 gauge)
  • Clear, fillable ornaments
  • Mini parachute cord bracelet buckles
  • Purple ribbons (multiple sizes)
  • Super glue or contact cement

Tips:  
  1. If you add leather paint to the mix, the paints will actually get a lot more pigmented, dry faster, and become more flexible. My favorite brand is Angelus Leather Paint because it is acrylic based, so it mixes perfectly with regular acrylic paints.
  2. When filling gaps or seams or smoothing surfaces, use silicone caulk or Quikseal for flexible/high tension pieces and wood filler for non-flexible pieces. If you use caulk, make sure you get the paintable kind.
  3. There are many small parts of each armor and accessory, label every individual piece to make them easier to assemble.
Guide:
  • This is the longest category of the tutorial. I have broken it down to many parts and subparts. It is extremely important that you make templates for these as there are many most are symmetrical and/or doubled of themselves.​
  • For most parts using Worbla, you don't have to double layer or use the sandwich method. The Worbla is used mainly to reinforce BEHIND the EVA foam. I will tell you if you need double layer to use the sandwich method for any piece.
  • All of the armors and accessories were primed using Vallejo acrylic primer (4-5 coats until smooth & shiny) and painted with the pre-mixed acrylic paints (3-4 coats) as mentioned in the previous section.
  • Part 1: chest plate
    • Using fillable ornament halves, heat form the bases of the bra cups with Worbla's Black Art. Once the Worbla is cooled, the bases were removed from the ornaments and were cut to the right shape. I did not make pattern for this part, so it is based on how far or pointy you want the corners to be (be sure to make both sides symmetrical to each other).
    • Next, I used masking tape to trace a quick pattern on the cups, which will be transferred over onto 3mm EVA foam. The foam's surface is much smoother than Worbla's, so I like to use foam on top of all my Worbla pieces. The two cups are then glued together at the bottom center, and the bottom edges are traced onto a sheet of paper.
  • ​Using the traced bottom edges, create a pattern for the triangular part for the bottom half of Lux's chest plate. 5mm EVA foam was used for this part. I also cut a slit down the middle back in order to fold it in half & make it more 3D. Then, Worbla was used to reinforce the back.
  • For the middle triangular pieces on the top of the chest plate, 3mm EVA foam was used for the base, & 2mm foam was used for the details.
  • These were also reinforced with Worbla at the back after gluing to the main chest plate. Heavy duty Velcro was then added to the back of this piece using hot glue to attach to the dress later on.​
  • ​The chest plate was primed and painted until it was smooth and shiny.
  • Additional pieces of Worbla's Black Art was added to the back to reinforce the seams between the cups and the triangle pieces.
  • Velcro was hot glued to the back of the chest plate using hot glue and the dress to make this piece detachable from the dress.
  • Part 2: hip armor
    • There are 2 main parts to the hip armor: the belt & the wings.
    • ​The belt:
      • I made my base with 5mm EVA foam, and I used 3mm for the details on top. I used ribbons to tie the belt close, but you could also use mini buckles, whichever is more convenient for you.
      • Measure the upper part of your hips, then use this measurement to trace out a pattern for the base shape of the belt. This part does not have to be perfect because more foam will be added on top. Worbla is also not needed here for more flexibility.
      • Use masking tape to help keep the ends of the belt together in shape then prime and paint.
  • The wings:
    • My favorite method to use when pieces need to be easily bent while still maintaining structure and rigidity. Depending on the structure or thickness, different thicknesses of wires and foam may be used.
    • Once the individual wing pieces were cut out, and the wires are sandwiched between the foam, they were attached together at a top point then primed.
    • I made patterns of the wings then traced them onto 5mm EVA foam. It is extremely important that these pieces are not floppy, so I added wires & sandwiched them between 2 pieces of foam.
  • Next, I attached the wings to the belt. I thinned out the top part of the wings to reduce bulkiness to the belt. By thinning the top part, the foam became thinner and was more prone to tears, so extra reinforcements are needed there.
  • The joint between them was under a lot of tension, so I added ribbons across the joint between the wings and the belt (circled below), as well as the back of the belt for extra durability. You could also use strips of fabric or bias tape for this part instead of ribbons. I just like ribbons because they are more convenient. Notice, I added the rest of the ribbons way after I took any of photos below.
  • ​Then, I painted the wings and sewed 3 large hook-and-eye closures onto ribbons and attached them to the middle and sides of the hip armor (not shown on photo on the right), as well as adding them to the dress to attach the armor to the dress when worn.
  • I also added ribbon to the ends of the hip armor to tie close at the back.
  • Part 3: back armor
    • There are 3 parts to the back armor: feather collar, wings, and triangular back.
  • Feather collar:
    • I used 2 sheets of 3mm foam in purple to match the color of the feathers. You could use black or dark colored foam sheets because they would not pop out underneath the feather.
  • In between the 2 foam layers are wires in order to curve the collar and give it structure. Long purple feathers were used for mine. I used about 1.5 packs of feathers for this.​
  • Pay attention to the direction and side of the feather (they curve differently & also have different texture depending on which side you use). I used hot glue to attach these feathers to the foam.
  • Wings:
    • I used 5mm foam to cut out individual layers for these wings. I glued them together with super glue, filled the gaps with wood filler, and sanded smooth.
    • I used small wooden dowels (because the color is very close to my skin), but you could also use a clear acrylic rod or clear plastic sheets for this part) to connect the two wings.​ I didn't have a long enough wooden dowel, so I put 2 together.
    • The wooden dowels were inserted into the wings and attached with super glue and painted.
  • Triangular back:
    • The piece right underneath the collar triangular piece. I used 3mm foam as a base with 2mm foam for details.
    • To reinforce this piece, I added 2 layers of Worbla's Black Art to the back side.​
    • Next, this piece was primed and painted.
  • Once all these parts were finished, the feather collar was glued to the top of the triangular back, and the wings are attached using Velcro to the triangular back and collar piece to make them removable which allows easier storage/transportation.
  • I added clear straps to the wooden dowel on the wings part as it is the most durable part of this piece for shoulder straps. I also added one strap to the bottom of the triangular back piece to go under the bust to make sure that the set did not sway around.​
  • Part 4: the crown
    • I made a blueprint the crown on Adobe Illustrator.
    • Using 5 mm foam as the base. I stacked 3-4 layers of this foam, depending on the size and thickness of the piece.
    • The pieces were cut and smoothed down to shape. They don't have to be super smooth, just enough to take the shape of the crown.
    • All of the pieces were then wrapped with Worbla's Black Art using the sandwich method, then each were attached to each other using the heat gun with additional bands of Worbla at the joints at the back for extra durability. 
    • To fill the gaps and to smooth it out dents, I used silicone caulk and let dry.
    • Clear comb clip was hot glued to the crown. Then whole crown was then primed and painted.
  • Part 5: arms, neck, and knee armors
    • All three of these armors were made similarly to each other, so I grouped them together. The arms and neck armors were made with 3mm EVA foam as the base while the knee armors were made with 5mm EVA foam, connected using mini buckles, and primed and painted.
    • The mini buckles were attached using ribbon and super glue to the ends of each piece. This method makes them put on the pieces without any rips or tears.​
  • Arm accessories:
    • For your upper arm measurement, measure the diameter about half way between your elbow and shoulder.
    • Once you get the size, draw out the pattern. Make sure to take note of the length of the mini buckles when making your pattern.
    • Once the pieces were cut out, they were primed and painted.
  • ​I added short purple feathers using hot glue. I used 5 feathers on each arm: the longest piece of feather in the middle and the shortest on the sides.
  • A small piece of Velcro was added to the back side of each piece to help secure them to the gloves.
  • Neck armor:
    • Using the same method, make a pattern of your neck. For this piece, it is important to make it much bigger than your neck measurement. You'll want this piece to be loose enough to breath and talk comfortably.
    • For any gap in the seams, use silicone caulk to fill and smooth them out before priming and painting.
  • Knee armors:
    • I sewed a medium sized safety pin to a piece of ribbon, which was then attached to the back of the knee armor. I did it this way to make it easier to attach to any stockings.
    • This method is completely optional and is used only to help prevent the knee armors from slipping down while moving. You could use other, more permanent method to secure them to your stockings as well.
CLICK HERE to go back to parts selection.

Dress, Gloves, & Stockings

Materials needed:
  • Matte satin fabrics in 2 different shades & matching threads
  • Felt
  • Zippers (invisible zipper preferred)
  • Small hook-and-eye closures
  • Boning (plastic or metal)
  • Iron-on interfacing
  • Matte purple gloves
  • Purple knee high stockings
  • 2 pairs of sheer pantyhose (purple and black)
  • Pins (straight or safety pins)
Optional:
  • RIT Dyemore Synthetic fabric dyes
  • Lace or ruffle trims
  • Knit purple fabric
  • Horsehair braid or fishing line
  • Existing patterns from brands such as Simplicity, McCalls, etc.
Tips:  
  1. ​If you use Fray-Check on the seam lines before you cut the edges of seam allowance before you cut them, it'll make the cuts very clean and prevent fraying.
  2. You can make the bodice/corset and the skirt as two separate pieces or as a whole dress if you want. It depends on your preference. I went with the second route.
  3. Pinning perpendicular to the sewing line makes the fabric more secured when sewing. Doing so also makes it easier for the machine to sew through without removing the pins.
  4. Make a mock-up with muslin or other cheap fabric before you use your main fabric in order to test the fit. 
  5. The skirt and the bodice are two different colors. I used a thinner, darker purple satin for the bodice and a thicker, lighter purple matte satin for the skirt to give it more volume. I prefer matte satin because it won't look distracting on photos but still has a nice sheen to it.
  6. Sand round the ends of plastic boning or use boning caps for metal boning to prevent them from poking & ripping through the casing. The boning should be slightly shorter than the casing to leave room to sew them close.
  7. Boning placement depends on how much support/shaping you want the bodice or corset to form. I did vertical placements at the panel joints for mine, but you could add more as needed.
​​Guide:
  • The clothing part of this cosplay is pretty straightforward. If you have an existing pattern, you can use that. The dress is a strapless dress with a sweetheart neckline. The skirt is double layered skirt (either pleated or gathered is fine according to your preference).
  • The rest of the pieces can easily be bought as is, or you can customize them as explained below.
  • Sewing is not my forte, so I will try to explain it as best as I could. If you are already experienced with sewing, you can just skim through this part of the tutorial.
  • Part 1: the dress
    • Drafting the bodice pattern:
      • If you bought an existing pattern, you can skip this part.
      • I used the plastic wrap & plastic tape method on my dress form. For my bodice, I went with a 5-panels bodice with zipper at the back.
      • I like to make my patterns WITHOUT seams allowances because I prefer to add them onto to the fabric afterwards, which gives me more flexibility in case the edges fray before I get to the piece.
      • Then, I tested out the fit and altered the pattern as needed by taking in or adding more to certain parts until the fit was good.
  • ​Interfacing the fabric:
    • I used interfacing on both the lining fabric and the outer, fashion fabric layer. If you decide not to do it like this, then interfacing for the fashion fabric layer is a must because it makes the bodice look more finished.
    • It is very important that you exclude the seam allowances from the interfacing to make the seams less bulky when sewn together.
    • Once the Fray Check was dried, I cut along the Fray Check part (this makes the lines super clean and also easier to cut) which gave me 0.5" seam allowances.
  • I first iron-transferred my pattern pieces onto interfacing (I used Pellon's Fusible Midweight Interfacing) and used Fray Check 0.5" away from the edges of the interfacing, as my seams allowance.
  • Sewing the bodice:
    • Once all the panels were sewn together, I snipped all the seams that join each panel and also the neckline seams about 0.5" to 1" apart, depending on how curved the part was; doing so would allow the seams to lay more flat and easier to iron down.
  • After all the panels were cut, pin them all together and sew. Pin the fashion fabric layer and the lining layer separately. For the stitch type, I like to use single line 3mm straight stitches.
  • Next, I added casing and boning to the lining layer at each inner panel seam. I also used the same straight stitch for this. Make sure the boning channel does not slip out of line as you sew them.
  • Then, I turned the bodice right side out and pressed the neckline. 
  • For my bodice, I added pre-made ruffle trim to the top edge of the neckline and back to make them look nicer, but this is totally optional.
  • Don't install the zipper yet as that will be done after the skirt is attached to the bodice unless you want have wear them separately.
  • ​​Cutting and sewing the skirt:
    • Before I pleated them, I hemmed and pressed each layer ahead to make it easier. You could also knife pleat them or gather them instead of box pleating them. Once both layers were done, I sewed them together at the top and cut off excess seams as needed to make both seams even. They should have at least 0.5 inch seams at the top. 
    • The skirt was done in 2 layers, with the bottom layer 2 inches longer than the top layer. Each layer was one long rectangular piece that box pleated about 1 inch wide as I fed it through the sewing machine. Don't press the pleats down because you'll want them to look more poofy/bouncy rather than distinct pleats like a sailor skirt!​
  • Finishing touches:
    • If you choose to leave the skirt and bodice as two separate pieces, then you should add a waist band for the skirt and a zipper to that as well. If you join the bodice and the skirt together, then you can add zipper after they are sewn together.
    • Either way that you choose, add a hook-and-eye closure to the top of the zipper to prevent zippers from slipping down accidentally.
    • To make the dress look more finished and "professional," either serge or zigzag stitch all the inner seams and press your hem lines. Cut off excess hanging threads as well.
    • ​In order to attach armor, sew the other side of the velcro that you glued earlier to the chest armor piece to the top part of the bodice. Add hook-and-eye closures to the hips part of the dress (should be the joint of the skirt and bodice) at the front middle and sides to secure the hip armor.
  • Part 2: the gloves
    • You can make your own gloves or buy pre-made ones. I bought matte purple gloves and dyed them to match my stockings. Matte gloves look better on photo because they are not overly shiny and distracting which will take attention away from the armors.
    • Sew the other side of the Velcro to the top edge of the gloves. You do not need a lot of Velcro for this part. It is used only to prevent the gloves from slipping down/separating from the arm armors.
  • Part 3: stockings
    • I dyed purple knee high stockings slightly to match the gloves a bit more using a mix of RIT Dyemore synthetic dye in royal purple and sapphire blue. You only need 1 sock for this, but you could dye the whole pair. Follow instructions on the package for dye.
  • For the pantyhoses, you should get 2 pairs: sheer purple and sheer black. You should get ones without the reinforced top in order to avoid the lines because they should look seamless. I bought mine on eBay for about $2 each.
  • To wear, you put the purple one on the left leg, and the black one over both legs on top of the purple pantyhose. This keeps the purple one secure and prevents it from falling down. Since Dark Lux looks like she has sheer black pantyhose on anyways, this method is perfect for that. The knee high stocking goes on the right leg without the purple pantyhose. 
CLICK HERE to go back to parts selection.

Shoes
Materials needed:
  • Black or dark purple heels
  • EVA foam (3mm)
  • Ribbon
  • Black vinyl or electrical tape
  • Ribbon
  • Acrylic primer
  • Acrylic paint
Optional:
  • Super glue or contact cement
  • Insoles
Tips:
  1. Buy heels 1/2 size bigger than your actual size and add insoles. It'll make them more comfortable to wear
  2. Platform heels are more comfortable to wear than regular heels
  3. When making indentions on foam, you can cut these indentions with X-acto knife, and use a heat gun over those lines. The cuts will "grow," making the indentions more pronounced and give a clean finish.
  4. Make shoe armor detachable in order to reuse the heels for something else.
  5. Use matching colored ribbons, vinyl tape, to hide the 
Guide:
  • The shoes are one of the simplest part of the cosplay to make.
  • Part 1: choosing the heels
    • You can either go for comfort, accuracy, or both.
    • I chose a pair of chunky platform heels for both comfort and accuracy, but you can use any pair of black or dark purple heels to your liking as a base.​
    • I used the heels pictured on the right as my base heels. I prefer heels with straps because they allow more mobility.
  • Part 2: patterning and making
    • Using plastic wrap and masking tape, I created the pattern on the heels and transferred the pattern onto 3mm EVA foam.
    • All the foam pieces were glued together with super glue then primed and painted.
  • Part 3: attaching the armors to the heels
    • If you decide to make the shoe armors more permanent, simply glue the armors to the heels, and you're finished!
  • Otherwise, you can make them detachable in order to reuse the heels any time.
  • First, glue ribbons to both sides of each piece. The length of the ribbon depends on how many times you need to wrap or tie the armors to your heels.​ This keep the armors secured in place.
  • Next, use masking tape or vinyl tape (fold them to make them double-sided) to attach the armors to the heels.
  • Last, tie the ribbons to the heels, crossing under the heel arches and tie to each side of the straps.
CLICK HERE to go back to parts selection.
That is all to my Dark Elementalist Lux cosplay tutorial. Thank you for following to the end. I hope you've enjoyed it. Contact me if you have any question.
​
I would love to see your creation using my tutorial! Show me it when you finish making it!

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Last updated: October 27, 2025