Tutorial published on January 12, 2019
​Updated on June 4, 2023

DISCLAIMER:
  • This tutorial is meant for educational purposes only.
  • Rinazuha and any contributor of this tutorial are not liable for any mistakes, harms, injuries, or damages incurred while attempting to follow and perform the instructions in any part of this tutorial.
  • The instructions involve the use of potentially hazardous tools and materials, including but not limited to paints and glues, scissors and knives, heat gun, electric or power tools, etc.
  • By following and attempting the instructions from this tutorial, you are the sole responsible party for any consequences incurred to you or your environment. Rinazuha and any contributor of this tutorial are not involved in any way and are exempt from all possible consequences involved in any attempts using this tutorial. Please read carefully and use extreme caution and common sense while attempting to perform or modify any part of this tutorial. 
  • If you are a MINOR: do not attempt to follow and perform any process of this tutorial without adult permission and/or supervision.
Welcome to my Arcade Miss Fortune cosplay tutorial!

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me on Facebook, Instagram, or by email at [email protected].

*This tutorial is best viewed on desktop 1920x1080p using Google Chrome or Mozilla Firefox*
Please use the navigation buttons below and throughout this page to move quickly through the tutorial. Click on the images to enlarge them.
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Wig

Materials needed:
​Optional:
Tips: 
  1. It is fine to substitute the white wig with a silver (Arda's silver) one as well as the dye won't be affected much by the silver. However, if you use a darker shade as a base wig, it will affect your end result (your dye won't be as vibrant at the end).
  2. The wigs will look much darker when it is wet, so take note of that when dyeing them.
  3. Wear gloves and cover your work area well because the ink will stain EVERYTHING.
Guide:
  • For my wig, I used 1 curly lace front wig and 1 regular curly wig. The hairline would look so much better with a lace front. I also spliced 2 wigs together because wanted my wig to look more voluminous and to give it some extra lengths.
  • I used the FW ink + alcohol method in order to have more control over the dyeing process. Make sure that you use FW ink from DALER-ROWNEY brand; not all ink mixes well with alcohol (some clump up and will not mix at all), so this is very important.
  • For the ink to alcohol ratio, I filled the pipette 4 times (12ml of ink total) for every spray bottle (mine was 16 oz each). Overall, I used 2 ink bottles of process cyan, 1 of purple lakes, and 4 of process magenta. I don't remember the exact amount of alcohol I used, but it was quite a lot. Either 50% or 70% isopropyl alcohol is fine.
  • If you're using extra wefts instead of a second curly wig, make sure you curl it ahead of time. It will be very hard to curl it after it is dyed. If you're using wefts, separate and curl each weft layer individually.
  • Part 1: prepping the wig
    • I started with prepping the lace front first. If you did not get a lace front wig, you can skip this part.
    • DON'T trim the lace yet. This step will be very important in order to keep the lace from getting stained.
    • First, I put the lace front on the wig head and pinned it down carefully. I used 4 pins in total to make sure the wig stayed in place. You can use either T-pins, U-pins, or even safety pins. Don't pin down the lace at the front as it will stay on it's own when it's uncut.
  • Clip back all the wig strands away from the hairline. The lace goes down very far, so make sure you get all the wig strands pulled back.
  • Using the Got2B glue, apply the glue onto the lace as closely to the hairline to all the way out at least 0.5" away from the hairline. Avoid the roots of the wig as it will prevent the ink from staining the wig. You will need to apply 2-3 thick layers of the glue. Use a hair dryer to dry out the layer a bit before applying the next layer.
  • Part 2: dyeing the wig
    • ​Once again, make sure your working area is well-ventilated and well-covered.
    • Use a respirator to avoid the alcohol fumes. It is also preferred that you don't finish the wig in one sitting due to all the alcohol fumes (fire hazard).
  • 1st round:
    • To speed up the process, you can spray every 2-3 layers of wefts at a time. ​Start with the bottom (innermost) layers of wefts. Refer to the diagram on the right for color positions.
    • Spray the ink at the top of the wig and work your way halfway down the wig with process magenta mixture. Use blow dryer to dry out the alcohol, to reduce dripping. 
    • Repeat 2 more times before moving onto the next color.​​ Use paper towels/butterfly clamps to stop the ink from traveling further past halfway down the wig. 
  • Next, spray the purple lakes mixture in the middle section. You will want to overlap some of this purple ink onto the pink part to create the gradient effect, and blend it out with your fingers.
  • Repeat the process like the previous step, then move onto to the process cyan mixture for the remainder of the bottom and repeat.
  • ​Use a dye brush to stain the top part of the wig (near the lace) with process magenta. It is okay to get the ink on the lace because it won't stain through the glue.
  • After you've sprayed all the layers. Move onto the 2nd wig.
  • ​Move onto the second wig (or curled wefts).
  • For my second wig, I did not use a wig head. I covered a flat surface with plastic covers, added some paper towels, laid down the wig, and sprayed directly onto the wig.
    • Spray all until the wig is saturated. You won't have to spray layer by layer.
    • The dye gradient here won't need to be perfect because it will be mostly hidden.
  • You won't need as many rounds as the 1st wig for this.
  • ​Now, you can let both of the wigs dry for at least 3-4 hours (or preferably overnight) before continuing.
  • Second round:
    • Repeat entire the process for the second round for both wigs. The first round won't be sufficient to get the right color intensity.
    • You might need to repeat these rounds at least 2 more times (I did 5 rounds for mine).
    • Make sure to touch up the top and roots of the lace wig after every round. Because it is left upright, the ink will slowly travel to the bottom as it dries, so the top will end up being much lighter.
    • After the wig has reached the right color intensity, you can move onto the next step.
  • Part 3: add wefts to the wig
    • ​​If you are only using 1 wig for this, you can skip this part.
    • For my wig, I used the Luthien to splice together with the Dany. I used the second wig instead of the wefts because it is not only already pre-curled but also much easier to manage than wefts.
    • I sewed the wefts from the 2nd wig to the main wig, working my way from the bottom up the layers of the wigs. Make sure you alternate the layers when you add in the wefts. It'll help it blend in better.
    • You can refer to this video by Arda Wigs for a better walk-through on this process. Make sure you SEW the wefts and NOT GLUE them on as you will need to rinse out the wig after.
  • Below is before & after spliced my wigs together:
  • Part 4: washing the wig
    • After you've finished adding wefts to the wig. Make sure that it has been at least 3 days to a week for the ink to set properly before washing it 
    • Use a wide tooth comb, comb the individual curly strands of the wig, and twist it back into shape. This will lessen the wig from the "crunchy" texture from the ink as well as detangle it a bit before you wash it. This step would make it much easier to style later.
    • Add wig shampoo to COLD water (I used DeMert Wig & Weave System Shampoo), and gently agitate the wig to remove excess ink. Be sure to rub off all of the Got2B glue from the lace as well. Rinse it until water runs mostly clear. 
    • Let the wig air dry on a towel. You could also let it hang dry too, but you might lose some of the curls that way. Once the wig is dry, you can put it back on a clean wig head.
  • Part 5: restyling the wig
    • Using a wide toothed comb, comb out the individual curls again, starting at the bottom of the wig and move up. Use your finger to twist each curl back into its right direction after each one.
    • Arcade Miss Fortune has a part of the left side of her head, so use a comb to separate the part, then use heat from a blow dryer to set the part.
    • If you want the curls to stay better or give the top of the wig more volume, you can use Got2B freeze spray to set it. I skipped this part for my wig.
    • Trim the lace as close to the hairline as possible before you wear it.
CLICK HERE to go back to parts selection.

Guns

Materials needed:

  • ​Super glue or contact cement
  • Battery-operated LED fairy lights in pink
  • X-acto knife, hand saw, and scissors
  • Sandpapers (120 & 240 grits)
  • Hand sander or power sander
  • Dremel & power drill
Tips:
  1. Mix containers of different shades of paints that you need ahead in order for the color/finish to stay consistent with the rest of the cosplay.​ Mix enough for the ENTIRE cosplay.
  2. If you add Angelus Leather Paint to your paint mixtures, your paints will become much more pigmented, more durable, and dry faster. Since Angelus paint is acrylic based, it is completely mixable with regular acrylics paints.
  3. If you thin down Flexbond (I like 1:5 ratio of water to Flexbond), it'll help minimize streaks when sealing the foam. You can also thin down wood glue in the same ratio.
  4. Make templates and label everything as you will be making mirrors and doubles of every piece.
Guide:
  • I made all of my templates on Adobe Illustrator using the 3D model as a base and printed to size; however, you could also buy pre-made blueprints.
    • I could also make my blueprints available to buy on request. Let me know if you want to use my pattern. It will be in a pdf format.
  • Part 1: creating gun frames
    • First, I traced my the top part of my template onto 10mm foam, cut them out, and stacked them until they were the right thickness (I don't remember how many layers I used for my guns). Don't include the handle for this part.
    • Next, I used 1 layer of 5mm on each side to add the outer layer. You can either sand down the bevel or use wood filler to create the bevel effect. I will explain more in later steps.
  • Part 2: smoothing the frames
    • Before you do any form of sanding, make sure you heat seal the foam to get it as smooth as possible. If you heat the foam after you have used wood filler, it cause them to crack.
    • For my guns, I used wood filler and sand paper to smooth out what I made so far. Make sure you use the interior kind, not exterior kind, because the interior kind is much easier to work with and sand. I also used wood filler to create the bevels in the frame (as mentioned in part 1) instead of sanding the foam directly.
    • You could sand everything by hand, but I also found it really helpful to use a hand sander (or a power sander if you have one) because there are many flat surfaces. For smaller/more detailed areas, just use sand paper to smooth them out. Start with 120 grits sand paper to shape then move onto 220 grits to smooth out.
    • You might need to redo this part several times in order to get the right amount of smoothness.
  • Part 3: adding gun barrels
    • Using hand saw, cut down 1.5" diameter PVC pipes to the right length according to the template. You will need to cut the pipes about 1" longer than what is shown on the template in order to insert the them into the frames.
    • Lightly sand the outside of the PVC pipes using 220 grits sand paper or higher. This will help the paints adhere to the barrels later on.​
  • Trace out the shape of the barrel onto the part you will insert into the frames, then use an x-acto knife to carve out the shape. Insert the pipes into frame & glue.
  • Use 2mm EVA foam to cover the area that you've just inserted the barrel into, and then, add more wood fillers to any gaps you made from the barrel and sand them smooth.
  • Add the area behind the gun barrels and the rest of the details to the whole frame by carving them out with an x-acto knife or a Dremel. Then, sand everything smooth.
  • Part 4: adding handles and triggers
    • Using the template, trace out the handle onto EVA foam. I used 3 layers of the 10mm and 1 layer of 5mm. 
    • Before you glue everything together, cut out a space in the center for the wooden rod. The rod should protrude out both ends of the handle. Then, glue everything together. This is very CRUCIAL because it will prevent the gun handles from being floppy and will help them stay secured to the frames 
  • Mark the bottom of the frame where you want the handle to be at, and make the base for that part using 10mm foam. Also, mark where the wooden rods will go through.
  • Using the power drill, drill holes into the bottom of the frame at an angle. Drill at an angle so that the wooden rods will be attached securely.
  • You can see how I made mine in the video below.
  • After you have drilled and tested out the fits, glue the handles into the frames (unless you want to make them detachable).
  • Add 10mm EVA foam to the bottom of the handles to finish it. Heat seal the foam then use wood filler again to fill out gaps, add bevel, and smooth the foam out. I forgot to take photos of this part.
  • Part 5: seal, prime, and paint
    • Using diluted wood glue or Flexbond, seal both guns with at least 3-4 layers. Next, prime them with at least 4-5 layers of Vallejo acrylic primer until they are shiny and smooth. Always make sure to let each layer dry before moving onto the next.
    • I used metallic paints here because these guns are more futuristic looking, and they will make these guns pop out on photos. I used about 3-4 layers of premixed acrylic paints until they were smooth and even.
    • Next, I used 2 coats of Angelus acrylic finisher to make them extra shiny and protect the paint job. You could also spray a clear acrylic coat instead.
CLICK HERE to go back to parts selection.

Clothing & Hat

Materials needed:
  • Custom printed cotton sateen fabric
  • Matte satin & metallic satin fabrics & matching threads
  • Zippers (invisible zipper preferred)
  • Small hook-and-eye closures​

  • Boning (plastic or metal)
  • Iron-on interfacing​
  • ​Iron-on glitter vinyl​
  • Large gold buttons
  • Cotton or polyester batting
Tips:  
  1. ​If you use Fray-Check on the seam lines before you cut the edges of seam allowance before you cut them, it'll make the cuts very clean and prevent fraying.
  2. Pinning perpendicular to the sewing line makes the fabric more secured when sewing. Doing so also makes it easier for the machine to sew through without removing the pins as they won't get stuck to the sewing machine foot. 
  3. Make a mock-up with muslin or other cheap fabric before you use your main fabric in order to test the fit. 
  4. Sand down the ends of plastic boning or use boning caps for metal boning to prevent them from poking & ripping through the casing. The boning should be shorter than the casing.
Guide:
  • This section will be done in 3 parts: bustier top/corset, skirt, and the puffer vest.
  • Part 1: the bustier top and corset
    • In order to draft my patterns for these pieces, I used plastic wrap & tape on my dress form.
    • You can use a pre-existing pattern if you want. For the bra top, you can use either a bra or make a bustier top.
    • I like to make my patterns WITHOUT seam allowances because I prefer to add them onto to the fabric afterwards, which gives me more flexibility in case the edges fray before I get to the piece.
    • I went with a 7-panels pattern for both the bustier top & the corset to be more form fitting.
    • I used double layers of interfacing (​Pellon's Fusible Midweight Interfacing) for the bustier top and the corset: interfacing on both the the fashion fabric layer and the lining layer in order to give them more stiffness.
    • The bustier top was closed at the back with 4 sets of hook-and-eye closures (like the back of a bra). I sewed buttonholes and large gold buttons for the front of the corset to close it.
    • I also made the triangular orange piece that's part of the bustier top separately. I sewed it in 2 individual pieces and hand sewed them together to make them stand out better.
  • ​Because I wanted top and corset to be comfortable, I did not make them very tight. In order to keep the corset from slipping down, I added 2 hook-and-eye closures to connect it to the front of the bustier top.
  • Using pink glitter iron-on vinyl, I cut out star shapes with an x-acto knife, then ironed those onto the corset.
  • You could also paint these stars on instead with fabric paint if you can't get access to iron-on vinyl.
  • Part 2: the skirt
    • The skirt was patterned in the same method as the top and corset with 2 main panels and darts instead.
    • I created the purple checkered design on Adobe Illustrator and got it custom printed on cotton sateen on Spoonflower. The cotton sateen not only has a slight stretch but also a slight sheen to it that makes it pop on photos.
    • I did not use any interfacing on the skirt, but I did sew a lining layer in the same fabric as the fashion layer.​
  • I did not use any interfacing on the skirt, but I did sew a lining layer in the same fabric as the fashion layer.​
  • For the pleats at the bottom of the skirt, I went with 2" wide knife pleats, with each pleat folded completely over itself.
  •  I folded and pressed the fabric at the bottom so that the entire pleats are covered with the fabric designs on both sides, which also saved me the trouble of hemming it.​
  • I added zippers and sandwiched the pleats in between the fashion and lining layers of the main part of the skirt, which could potentially allow it to be worn on both sides.
  • Additionally, I added belt loops and a hook-and-eye closure to the top of the zipper to prevent it from slipping down accidentally.
  • Part 3: the puffer vest
    • To make my pattern, I traced a loose tank top on a sheet of paper to create the basic shapes, and then I altered the shape added the collar to the pattern
  • I used 3 layers of polyester batting for the main part of the vest. I cut them out in the shape of the pattern and joined them together with the zigzag stitch.
  • I pinned and sewed the orange satin for the vest first, leaving the top part open to make it easier to add the collar in later.
  • I inserted the stitched batting through this opening, closed the top, then stitched lines throughout this part to quilt it. I just eyed the lines out and sewed, but it would be better if you measure them out for evenness.​
  • For the collar I sewed it separately first using white satin for the outer layer and hot pink satin for the inner layer. I used 5 layers of batting to make it extra puffy and machine stitched down the outer layer of the collar to the outer layer of the vest.
  • I joined the inner side of the collar to the vest by hand-sewing using the slip stitch.
CLICK HERE to go back to parts selection.

Accessories

Materials needed:

Optional:
Tips:  
  1. Use iron-on transfer paper made for dark colored clothing for extra vibrant prints.
  2. Sponge more water on the leather if it gets too dry and stiff while you're etching designs, unfinished leather is very malleable when wet.
  3. Leather-working tools are expensive and are not necessary to etch designs on the belt. You can use any hard metal tools such as nail dotting tools, metal rulers, etc. to add designs onto leather.
  4. Use gloss coating and metallic paints to make the accessories pop out even more.
​​​​Guide:
  • There are 5 parts to this section: the hat, belt, headphones, game console, and arms accessories.
  • Part 1: the hat​
  • ​For the hat, I drafted my pattern and used 5mm EVA foam as the main structure for sturdiness and 3mm foam for the visor to reduce visor bulkiness.
  • I suggest that you use white EVA foam or paint the foam white here to prevent the colors from showing through the fabric.​
  • Next, I extended my patterns by 0.5-1" downward for the white felt to cover the foam completely. I cut out the felt WITHOUT seam allowances and joined them with zigzag stitches. The felt's purpose is to create a smoother outer surface for the hat and hide rough seams and marks from showing through the fabric.​
  • ​For the final fabric layer, I used hot pink satin, white satin, and gold metallic satin. I extended my pattern an additional 1-1.5" downward in order to later fold inward the hat.
  • I patterned the logo on Adobe Illustrator, printed it onto the white iron-on transfer paper, and ironed it onto the finished hat fabric.
  • The last part is to slip the fabric onto the hat structure and glue all of the seams inside for a clean, finished look.
  • Part 2: the belt
    • For my belt, I bought 2" wide vegetable tanned leather strip from Tandy Leather. You could also use 1.5" wide leather if you want, or any white belt if you don't have access to leather. The leather strip has 2 sides: the main smooth side and the back "fuzzy" side.
    • First, I measured my hips & cut out a piece in with my measurement plus 1" extra to add snap buttons.
  • If you don't mind the "fuzzy" texture of the back of the strip, you can skip these steps:
    • You could also use gum tragacanth to smooth and seal this back side of the leather strip
    • To smooth down the back side, I sanded it with 120 grits then 220 grits sand paper and coated it with white leather paint.
  • In order to engrave the details, I first wet the leather. This step is crucial because it softens the leather, making it malleable. Keep a cup of water and a sponge (or paper towel) nearby to wet the leather as needed.
  • I first drew the design with a pencil and then used metal nail dotting tools and a metal ruler to press down onto the wet leather. Add water as needed to make engraving easier.
  • Once the leather was dried, I used about 3 coats of Angelus leather paint and sealed with the high gloss finisher.
  • For the closure, I used magnetic snaps. I bought the kind made for tote bags because they stay much more secured. I overlapped the belt by 1" (the extra length mentioned earlier).
  • I cut out 2 slits for the snap prongs to go through for both ends of the belt and super glued them to make them extra secured.​
  • I had my star 3D printed, but you could make it using EVA foam.
  • I sanded the star smooth, primed with Vallejo primer, painted with gold metallic paint, and sealed with the high gloss finisher
  • The star was then hot glued to the belt in front of the magnetic snaps.
  • Part 3: headphones
    • For the headphones, you could use cheap white headphones as a base or make everything completely from scratch. I went with the first option for mine.
    • Using a cheap pair of headphones, I cut off the headphone part, leaving the band at the top. I chose this over a regular headband because it is adjustable and stays much more secured on the head. If you use a regular headband, make sure to take in consideration of the wig.​
  • Heat form Worbla's Black Art over plastic fillable ornament halves. You can use either double or single layer of worbla. Cut the bottom edges of the worbla down after they are cooled to make both even.​
  • For the star, I used 3mm EVA foam and folded them. Mine are hollow, but you could also use thicker EVA foam, cut, and sand them down to shape. I then heat sealed the foam stars and glued them to the worbla headphone cups.
  • In order to attach them to headphone band, I added some EVA foam pieces to the hollow worbla headphone cups then hot glued them to the band. I also glued round headphone ear pads to the cup to make wearing them more comfortably.​
  • The headphone cups and stars were primed and painted with metallic acrylic paints.
  • Because the ear pads are flexible, they were prepped with acetone and painted with leather paint.
  • Part 4: game console
    • I purchased a white Nintendo Gameboy Classic replacement shell to use as a base for my console, but you could make the entire console out of EVA foam.
    • I took the shell apart, removed the battery components (all the metal parts), and added a strap at the back so that it could be attached to the belt.
    • I glued 3mm EVA foam behind the buttons so that they would stay intact.
    • For the screen, I printed league arcade/battle boss 8-bit image and taped it to the back of the replacement screen.
  • Part 5: arm accessories
    • Arcade Miss Fortune's arm accessories include arm warmers, bangles, and a watch.
    • I bought a set of light pink ribbed arm warmers for my cosplay. You could either buy ribbed fabric to make this or use knitted arm warmers if you can't find ribbed ones.
    • There are 2 bangles: a wider blue/green one and a narrower hot pink one. I used unfinished 1.25" wide and 5/8" wide ones for mine I primed both with Vallejo primer, painted with metallic paints, and gloss coated them with 3 coats of Angelus high gloss finisher.
    • For the watch, I used a dark purple smartwatch like the 3D model. You could also use a grey watch like the splash art instead. 
CLICK HERE to go back to parts selection.

Boots

Materials needed:
  • Platform wedge boots
  • Faux leather fabric
  • Leather paints
  • 1" or 1.5" wide belt buckles
  • Super glue or contact cement
Optional:
  • Memory foam or gel insoles
Tips:
  1. Buy heels 1/2 size bigger than your actual size and add insoles. It'll make them more comfortable to wear
  2. Make sure to wipe the surface of base shoes with acetone to remove any finish that might prevent the paint from adhering well.
  3. Paint multiple thin coats and let each dry thoroughly. It will prevent the paint from peeling off, remaining tacky, or cracking later on.
Guide:
  • Arcade Miss Fortune wears platform wedge boots with fold-over just below the knees. You can either start with thigh high boots and fold them down or start with knee high boots and add faux leather for the fold-overs. I went with the second option for mine.​
  •  Part 1: adding the fold-overs
    • If your boots can be folded down to the right lengths and shape, you can skip this part. Otherwise, start out with knee-high boots for this part.​
  • Part 2: creating the straps
    • I cut out 2 strips of faux leather, sewed the edges back to make them look nice so that they are 1" wide, and painted them. I then added the buckles to them.
    • I also cut out 2" by 0.5" pieces of faux leather and painted them.
  • Part 3: paint and finish
    • I painted the boots with 4-5 coats of mixed angelus leather paints. The soles were also painted with leather paint. 
    • Once the paint was completely dried, I super glued the buckled straps to the fold-over and smaller pieces for "laces."
CLICK HERE to go back to parts selection.
That's the end of my Arcade Miss Fortune cosplay tutorial. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.
​
I would love to see your cosplay using my tutorial! Show me your progress or when you're finished with yours!

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Last updated: October 27, 2025